Mouton Cadet Is The Official Wine of America’s Cup

In Bermuda, Mouton Cadet makes debut as the Official Wine of 35th America’s Cup. Continue reading

Medicinal Margaritas

Who says margaritas have to be calorie-laden affairs that do nothing more than get you buzzed while shooting your blood sugar to the moon. From the heart-healthy unsaturated fats found in avocados to the ancient healing properties of traditional Mexican ingredients such as xoconoxtle cactus fruit and damiana herb, superfoods are finding their way into cocktail shakers of mixologists around the world. Continue reading

Margaritas de Mayo

It’s that time of the year again; you know, when you celebrate a holiday for no other good reason except to get your drink on! We’re talking about Cinco de Mayo, and in Southern California you can find a good margarita just about anywhere. It’s the great ones that might take some serious bar-hunting to find, and luckily for you, we’re willing to do the leg work. Continue reading

Crescent City Cuisine

Food is to New Orleans what wine is to France: the city is celebrated worldwide for its delicious albeit unwholesome cuisine. Continue reading

Hottest New Bars In The US

Dining guide Zagat has rounded up a list of what they call the hottest new bars across America which includes a new watering hole by The Dead Rabbit team, known for winning the title of world’s best bar. Continue reading

A Brief History of the Sazerac, The Original Cocktail

Celebrate Mardi Gras With The Official Cocktail Of New Orleans (Not a Hurricane)

“The two Sazeracs had loosened her up a little and it looked as if we might become buddies.” —James L. Rubel, No Business for a Lady, (Gold Medal Books, 1950).

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In Search of the Holy Grail (of Beer)

Everyone in Europe seems to have an opinion when it comes to beer. On a recent Saturday night, I found myself at a pub in Rotterdam. The conversation at my table drifted from Oscar picks to Dutch politics before hitting a lull. To offset the momentary silence, I mentioned Belgian brews. Egor, a Dutch-Irishman sitting across from me, piped up: “Do you know about Trappist beers?” Continue reading

It’s National Watermelon Day!

No lie. August 3rd really is “National Watermelon Day.” We at GLR can’t even begin to find the history for this one, but HolidayInsights.com speculates a summer holiday celebrating a summer fruit Continue reading

Bitter Beauties

No, not a room full of your exes – bitters are Weapon X of many a bartender, and the unsung hero of many a classic cocktail. “Think of bitters as the spice rack behind the bar,” says Joe Fee, co-owner of the four-generations-old bitters producer Fee Brothers.

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Perfectly Pimm’s

Unlike the Serve and Volley This Wimbledon Favorite Has a Secret Recipe

The Pimm’s Cup gets its name from Pimm’s No. 1 – a gin based, tea colored liqueur (though some maintain it’s a bitter) that is the base for this classic summer cocktail. Continue reading

British Revival: The Pegu Club Cocktail

The Pegu Club Cocktail dates back to the late 1800s. It originated at its namesake hangout, the Pegu Club, a social establishment for British officers near the gulf of Martaban in Burma. Continue reading

Innovations in Grazing

 

They say that this is the way people shop for gourmet foods in Europe—by snacking and sipping while shopping in large, compartmentalized stores—but will it work in the United States? Looks like it. Roughly five years in the making, both Eataly—Mario Batali’s much-ballyhooed emporium next to Madison Square Park—and Todd English Food Hall—a collection of restaurants in the basement of the Plaza Hotel— remain as popular as ever. Continue reading

The Old Bay State

Whether they’re blue claw crabs off the shores of Long Island or Dungeness crabs from the West Coast, crabs are a delicious and excellent food for summer.  While restaurants ship these tasty crustaceans in from a variety of locales, the best crabs are (arguably) from Maryland. Continue reading

Departure is Cleared for Launch

 

Departure looks like something a teenage Tony Stark might have drawn in his spiral notebook while daydreaming in history class. Indeed, this elegant restaurant and lounge high atop the LEED-certified Nines Hotel in downtown Portland, Ore. is as sleekly engineered as Iron Man’s suit. Continue reading

Gin Is In

It may have been invented by a 17th century Dutchman, but today there is no more an oh-so-Anglo spirit than gin. With its unmistakable notes and bouquet of juniper, gin, as one of the “five clears,” makes way into just about every mixed drink in a bartender’s repertoire. Continue reading

Cold Comfort

Cold, dark winter weather that persists for months on end leads many to seek warmth in food; the kind of satisfaction that comes from ingesting lots of calories under the pretense that there are still months left before your weekends will be spent on beaches, pretending you know how to surf. Continue reading

Whiskies A Go-Go

What a difference an “e” makes. In 2008, New York Times writer Eric Asimov set off thunderbolts when he did up an otherwise non-confrontational whiskey review. His most dire of offenses? He used the American spelling of the spirit: w-h-i-s-k-e-y. And nothing gets a thistle up a Scotman’s kilt like that “e.” Continue reading

Raine’s Law Room—A New York Speakeasy That Has Stood the Test of Time

The “Mad Men” craze sparked the return of a number of retro trends. Bartenders are finally pouring proper cocktails and women’s sheaths and pencil skirts are returning to store shelves. But no homage to the good old days is complete without the speakeasy and New York City has one of the country’s chicest versions. Continue reading

Paley’s in Comparison

Steering clear of the one-size-fits-all chain restaurant box, Paley’s Place has made its mark on the West Coast restaurant scene with a distinctive convergence of French, Eastern European and Pacific Northwest influences, and dynamic emphasis on local, sustainable and seasonal.  The intimate charm is found amidst a historic Victorian house in the Northwest District of Portland, seating a mere 50 patrons. With a cozy front porch, open air patio and two dining rooms, one gets the sensation of stepping into the home of close friends.

 

Kimberly Paley, general manager and co-owner, became a front-of-house maverick after putting in her time at Bouley, Gotham Bar & Grill and Alison, while chef and co-owner Vitaly Paley earned his culinary chops in the hot kitchens of Remi, Chanterelle, and Union Square Café. The two foodies met eyes while working at Moulin de la Gorce, a two-star Michelin restaurant in France and well, as they say, the rest is history.

 

In “The Paley’s Place Cookbook: Recipes and Stories From the Pacific Northwest,” the Paleys illuminate why they couldn’t help but pick Portland as their final destination to start a restaurant due to the region’s access to superior ingredients. “Oregon reminded us of France, where ingredients are stars. In New York’s kitchens, I saw you could get anything any time. I also noticed that not much came from close by. While Kimberly and I didn’t necessarily want ours to be a French restaurant, we knew we wanted to sustain what we learned in France about being closer to the sources of food.”

 

The cookbook won the Best Regional Cookbook award by Epicurious in 2008, in part for sharing genuine, personal narratives that help the reader get to know the restaurant’s farm suppliers, such as greens and garlic grower, George Weppler and third generation potato guru Gene Thiel. Chef Paley was also recognized with the James Beard Award for “Best Chef of the Northwest” in 2005 for his advanced culinary technique and dedication to supporting local farm-to-table food of the Pacific Northwest. With a menu that changes daily, his muse comes from such local gems as Highland Oak Farm grass-finished beef, Quinault River Steelhead from the prized fisheries of the Quinault reservation and fresh veggies from the likes of Creative Growers Organic Farm.

 

If your winter taste buds take a gander at Paley’s most recent menu, you might observe some daring seasonal dishes including Rabbit Ravioli with bacon or Oregon Dungeness Crab Risotto enhanced by wild mushrooms and white truffle butter. Local flavor doesn’t desert the dessert, with Oregon candied kumquats finding their way into the Chèvre Cheesecake of winter citrus, sugared almonds and pistachios. Meanwhile, heirloom squash hides graciously among the delicate morsels of Warm Financier Cake with golden raisin verjus beneath a milk chocolate sherbet.

 

Their Sustainable Seafood Sundays draw a crowd, an event created with the intention of teaching diners about local, sustainable seafood options while tasting it for themselves. These dinners foster a conversation about the environmental issues behind how and where fish is caught, with the hopes that customers will leave with the knowledge to make more conscientious seafood choices.

Paley’s has gone so far as to create their own line of organic bars which they sell at specialty grocers and gourmet cheese shops. One favorite is Handmade at Paley’s Fruit & Nut Bar, a dense cheese condiment Paley came up with when he was unable to find a quality companion for his cheese menu.

 

The recipes of this Northwest star have caught the gaze of the New York Times, Bon Appétit, Wine Enthusiast, NPR and even Oprah Magazine, with whom Paley shares his enthusiasm for seasonal cuisine: “As the [cherry] harvest begins, I literally lie awake thinking about what I’m going to cook tomorrow. The beauty of seasonal cooking is that you get to rediscover an ingredient every time it reappears.”

 

Chef Paley’s culinary prowess secured him a spot on “Iron Chef America” in 2011, where he reigned victorious over Chef Jose Garces in a radish battle, claiming that being from the Soviet republic of Belarus gave him a leg up on how to utilize the entire radish plant in a variety of ways.

 

For those strolling down lovers’ lane to Paley’s Place for that romantic day in February, have a seat in their bar and bistro for a local bottle of Riesling from the Willamette Valley, aptly named Love and Squalor (2010) – while there still is a seat, that is…

1204 Northwest 21st Ave.
Portland, Ore. 97209

(503) 243-2403

 

Hours:
Monday-Thursday: 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Friday-Saturday: 5:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Sunday: 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

How to Make a Tom Collins and Why It is Often Misunderstood

The Tom Collins is a classic example of a purist cocktail that fell from grace after grocery stores began stocking their shelves several decades ago with the mass produced, heartburn-inducing sour mix. It’s been written about since 1876—Jerry Thomas, widely considered the father of mixology wrote The Bar-Tender’s Guide in 1862. The original recipe was made with gin, lemon juice, sugar and soda water. Remember to mix the gin, lemon juice and sugar (or simple syrup) first, before adding soda water.

 

Ingredients:

2 Ounces Dry Gin

Juice of 1 lemon

1 to 2 teaspoons superfine sugar, or simple syrup*

Soda Water

 

*An authentic Tom Collins should not be too sweet, but if you really need to watch your sugar intake try making it with Truvia – an all-natural, zero calorie sweetener (made from stevia) that is used in brands such as Vitaminwater Zero, Odwalla and Hanson’s Natural Low-Cal Juice.

 

Directions

Pour the gin, sugar and lemon juice into an empty Collins glass and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add ice and finish with an ample amount of soda water—approximately half a glass. Garnish with an orange or lemon slice. Remember to add plenty of soda water. Too little soda water will result in an acidic, sweet, gin-laden drink, which may make you angry and result in heartburn and a hangover the next morning.

 

A slightly different version of the drink, using Old Tom Gin gained popularity around the turn of the century and the recipe still lives on today among those in the know. Our resident cocktail expert, AJ Rathbun weighs in on another style of the age old classic. 

 

AJ’s Take: 

 

 

 

Tom Collins #1:

 

A combination that’s rolled pretty steady in the last century and a quarter (plus another 10 or 15 years), except for one monumental change: for a long while, we were lacking at our drinking-holding fingertips Old Tom gin, a sweetened gin which was the pre-eminent ingredient here, and which lead to the name, Tom Collins. Luckily, in the recent past, a few traditional Old Tom style gins have been released (such as the delicious Hayman’s Old Tom gin). So, today, you have two options (and will see two options when out, depending on the reach of your local). First, you can make it in classic style with an Old Tom gin. Second, you can use a little sweetner (sugar or simple syrup) to make up the difference when using a regular dry gin. Once there were many Collins’ drinks available (including the John Collins, exactly the same as the TC but made using the drier Holland Gin—this might be equated today with a gin such as Bols Genever or any gin saying it’s Jenever), and currently others don’t make the muster roll at most establishments. The formula is a fine one though, so try it at least with other liquors as well as gin: whiskey and brandy add their own nice touches.

 

With a drink that’s lasted as long as the Tom Collins, it’s bound to have shaded into various societies, too. Originally much heavier and more sugary (as were many drinks at the time), it played well in the top hot spots allowing ladies and gentlemen both, and had a hip cache amongst those in the booze know. Before long, as other potent potions came around, and as tastes and styles changed, the Tom Collins shifted its popularity to a more conservative constituency, as it began to be poured more in the middle part of last century by and for those who favored tightly trimmed hair and neatly pressed trousers. Today, it’s had a renaissance of sorts with the young professional type looking to unwind and recharge after a long day at the cubicle.

 

Whoever is drinking it, two things have to be remembered. First, our palate has changed, shifting to a love of drier drinks (and with the lack of Old Tom gins). With that firmly in mind, be careful when sliding in the simple syrup. There’s no need to cause tooth decay while drinking a classic. Secondly, the bubbles here need to be of the energetic variety. Never make a Tom Collins with old club soda, or you’ll fall as flat in the eyes of those consuming the drink as the soda itself. If available, use a soda siphon–if not, buy the club soda as close to constructing the drink as possible, and chill it beforehand. As Jerry Thomas said in 1862 about the Collins, “imbibe while it is lively.”

 

Tom Collins #1

2-1/2 ounces Old Tom gin

1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice

Chilled club soda

Lemon slice for garnish

 

1. Fill a cocktail shaker halfway full with ice cubes. Add the gin and lemon juice. Shake well.

 

2. Fill a Collins glass three-quarters full with ice cubes. Strain the mix over the ice. Top off with chilled club soda. Garnish with a lemon slice.

 


A.J. Rathbun is the author of Good Spirits: Recipes, Revelations, Refreshments, and Romance, Shaken and Served with a Twist (Harvard Common Press, 2007) and other books. All of his books, including the soon-to-be-released Champagne Cocktails and In Their Cups are available at www.amazon.com/ajrathbun

Rum Beyond Spring Break

 

Forget the too-sweet daiquiris, piña coladas and cuba libres that you associate with a certain type of beach vacation. Dominican export Brugal makes dry, sophisticated rums that deserve a lighter touch – and a second look.

 

Brugal was founded in 1888 by Andrés Brugal Montaner, and the family remains heavily involved to this day, with the company’s chairman and most of its board members being comprised of descendants of Don Andrés. The brand grew through the 20th century, and, thanks to distribution in the United States, Canada and Europe, Brugal is currently a major Caribbean export.

 

For an experience that is indeed miles away from the traditional (for better or worse) rum cocktail, I recommend Brugal 1888. Named for the year the company started, this dry spirit (new for 2012) is aged in wood casks for a distinctive flavor. Rum-o-philes recommend drinking this one as you would a whisky or Scotch: Neat or on the rocks so that its delicate flavors can unfold on the palate. Most well-stocked bars have a good bottle of single malt but how many have a good bottle of rum? We’re adding this to our list for out-of-the-box bar gift.

 

For a refreshing summer drink, on or off the beach, few quaffs beat the minty mojito. We made ours using Brugal Blanco Especial and their proprietary recipe (see below). Rather than soda, the recipe calls for ginger ale, not a bad idea at all considering the natural rapport of rum and ginger in a Dark & Stormy. Too balance out the extra sweetness from the ginger ale we recommend only one tablespoon of simple syrup as opposed to the standard two – and you can easily forego the simple syrup all together if you wish.

 

Gin has its stalwart supporters, whisky its devoted diehards – even tequila has an outspoken contingent. We think it’s time to take another look at rum. As far as we’re concerned, any spirit that counted serious drinkers like Hemingway among its fans can’t be written off that easily. Here are a few cocktail recipes designed to change your opinion of the sugar-cane derived drink:

 

Brugal Mojito

 

1 ½ oz. Brugal Blanco Especial Rum

8 to 10 Fresh Mint Leaves

Half a Lime

1 Tbsp. Simple Syrup

Ginger Ale

 

Using a muddler or spoon, crush mint leaves and squeeze lime in a tall glass. Cover with simple syrup and fill glass with ice. Add rum. Fill glass with ginger ale. Mix all ingredients. Garnish with mint.

 

Hemingway Daiquiri

 

2 oz. Brugal Blanco Especial Rum

¾ oz. Fresh Lime Juice

½ oz. Fresh Grapefruit Juice

½ oz. Maraschino liqueur

 

Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake and strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with lime.

A Green Light for Red Farm

“Rustic barn” and “Chinese food” may not be two things you’d normally put together, but at Red Farm, creative Chinese fare combines with country barn-like interior design to create a unique and cozy dining experience. Newly opened in the lower West Village, owners Joe Ng and Ed Schoenfeldin have incorporated the “farm-to-table” trend into their cuisine as well. Continue reading

Redd Wood Stands Tall

Yountville has perhaps the world’s highest per capita concentration of Michelin stars—the Napa Valley town has only 3,000 residents but six stars. One belongs to chef Richard Reddington, whose REDD restaurant has, since its opening in late 2005, been a favorite of those looking for innovative cuisine in a casual setting. Continue reading

Death and Tequila

 

OK, we admit it: A skeleton on a bottle usually makes us think “cyanide” before it does “award-winning tequila,” but in the case of Espolón Blanco and Reposado Tequilas, it’s all part of the plan. Continue reading