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R BlockEating Vietnamese, Drinking German at San Francisco’s the Slanted Door (Departures)

Chef Charles Phan’s Vietnamese flagship is the greatest place in the country to learn how to pair Vietnamese cuisine with wine.

Those of us who knew San Francisco back in the day—the psychedelic ’60s, the freewheeling gay ’70s, the bratty contact-jam ’80s, which was my main era—might mourn the city we loved before the dot-coms deleted much of the city’s bohemia. But we can sometimes feel okay about San Francisco’s, um, maturity when we go out to eat because, among restaurants, there are certain oldsters that have grown up with the city.

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