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A blue-and-white paint bomb has exploded. Fathers and sons are covered in residue. A roaring crescendo pumps through the brick walls and cobblestone streets of Berlin as the people very appropriately scream, “Alle warten voller Spannung auf das absolute Spiel denn die Jungens von der Herthahaben alle nur ein Ziel. Heute wollen sie gewinnen!” (All wait in anticipation to an absolute game because the boys from the Hertha all have only one goal. Today they want to win!) You would think someone has declared war. They have. The Ultimas of Hertha Berlin have taken over. Club football in places such as Berlin, Amsterdam and Birmingham, England, is not a sport, it’s a culture with its own history, tradition and superstitions.
Unlike North Americans, who pause once every four years to catch a glimpse of the World Cup on ESPN, the rest of the world dedicates its food, beer, color scheme, voices and time to the monthly observance of football. To fans of Hertha Berlin, Ajax Amsterdam and Aston Villa Birmingham, football is a religion filled with many tongues, hymns and never enough holy days.
Les Leeson, an unwavering fan of Aston Villa, agrees that game day is an all-day affair. For Leeson, the preparation for these holiest of days begins the night before by selecting an Aston Villa replica shirt, ironing it, crisping its edges and hanging it up and separating it from less-worthy garments. Game day against arch rival Birmingham City starts early for Leeson, who has to catch the 8:00 a.m. train to Birmingham to reach the 11:00 a.m. opening of the first holy shrine of the day: the pub, natch. The ritual of congregating at the doors of a local pub to begin a day’s worth of sacraments is pretty standard among English football fans. However, Ajax AFC fans of Amsterdam have a tradition that separates them from the rest.
In central Amsterdam, northeast of the Singelgracht canal is The Lediseplein Square. It’s here that you find zealous Ajax AFC fans preparing for a pre-game riot. Drunk with the strength and confidence of their technically undefeated Greek mascot or simply drunk with Amstel beer, Ajax fans anticipate triumph. Simultaneously dodging police officers on horses and kicking, jumping and punching the air as if possessed, the melodious chorus sings, “Hava nagila, Hava nagila, Hava nagila, Ve’nismecha!” No, Ajax fans aren’t notably Jewish. “Hava Nagila” is sung in reverence to the team’s history. In the 1970s, rival fans caught wind that a few of the founders of Ajax AFC were Jewish. They began to maliciously shout, “Joden! Joden!” (Jew! Jew!) When Ajax fans realized they were being taunted, instead of being insulted, they embraced the “slur” by appropriating the Hebrew folk song and draping the Israeli flag in their stadium.
Once in the stadium, the lines between tradition and superstition blur. Past Ajax player, Johan Cruyff began the ritualistic observance of spitting his chewing gum onto the opposition’s half before kick-off. This tradition turned into superstition as he held a winning streak. Then came the fateful day Cruyff forgot his gum. Ajax lost to Milan in the European Cup final of 1969. It has been said that Cruyff now regrets having started that superstition.
Ajax Fans at Amsterdam Arena
Ritualistic football fans however, disagree. The title for the most superstitious football fans goes to Spanish teams F.C Barcelona and Real Madrid. Their fans don’t keep their superstitions to themselves but pass them onto family members. Tony Alvarez, a 10-year F.C Barcelona fan currently residing in Tampa, Florida, requests his wife to cook garlic-filled meals throughout game week. His entire family must sing the F.C Barcelona anthem at exactly midnight on the eve of game day and just before he leaves for the game, he sleeps with his wife.
A team without devoted fans is, well, not a team at all. Some might say the fans are the team. Some might say the fans determine the future of the team. Some fans believe if they don’t show up to a game, their team will lose. This was the case with Real Madrid fanatic Diego Sanchez, who relocated to Sarasota, Florida, three years ago. He’s adjusted his superstitions and confesses that he visits his grandmother on game day, asking her to pray over him as he wears his Real Madrid replica. It’s not uncommon to see Real Madrid fans stop at local cathedrals in between barhopping for a moment of prayer.
Halftime at Villa Park in Birmingham, England, has taken a turn from tradition to just plain self-preservation. Soaked with alcohol beverages since 11:00 a.m. with a 3:00 p.m. kick off time, Leeson resorts to “balti pie,” a meat pie filled with the cultural influences of the local Indian cuisine. "We always traditionally have one of these,” Leeson says. “[The balti pie] soaks up the booze beautifully and sets you up for the second half.”
Ever wonder why football doesn’t have a marching band or cheerleaders? Why pay a band or cheerleaders when fans will do it for free? Aluminum cans, plastic horns and the stomping of feet upon the metal stands provide plenty of rhythm to sing the playlist for selected players. For Villa’s John Carew, fans sing, “John Carew, He’s bigger than me and you, he’s gonna score one or two, John Carew Carew.” Creating a new “hymn” using a popular tune is encouraged in football. Arsenal Fans sing for their Nigerian player Kanu, “Chim chiminy, chim chiminy, chim-chim chiroo, who needs Anelka when we've got Kanu?” A Mary Poppins song appropriated for football? Wonders never cease.
For newcomers, the frenzy-like culture of football initially may seem chaotic, foolish and overwhelming. The many rituals and traditions of football fans cannot be easily summarized. However, catching onto the wave is easier than you may think. Here’s your starter’s kit.
The Ten Commandments of Football
1. Thou shall not support another team. Choose one team and stick with them till the end.
2. Thou shall wear the proper regalia. A replica is a good start, but you could at least paint one side of your face.
3. Thou shall disrespect thy neighbor’s team. You must make your neighbor feel as uncomfortable and unwelcome as legally possible.
4. Thou shall respect thy neighbor’s bounds. Know your territory. If you’re the only one wearing blue in a sea of red, don’t choose that moment to announce your pride. This advice is not to hurt your ego, but to enhance your physical wellbeing.
5. Thou shall rally. It’s imperative to congregate wherever you can. Rally on the train, in the pub, in the town square, in the ally, at the game and after the game.
6. Thou shall expect your team to win. Bad juju starts in your mind. You must believe your team will win and expect your opponents to be utterly destroyed.
7. Thou shall sing at all times, pausing only to drink.
8. Thou shall freak out for every goal your team makes.
9. Thou shall begin a tradition. Take a drink for every corner kick, eat a meat pie at half time, or sleep with your significant other before the game.
10. Thou shall sober up in the morning, go back to work and become an integral part of society.
It shall surely come to pass, if you obey the commandments that I have given you this day, you will immediately feel a sense of belonging and an overwhelming desire to countdown to the next game. You will receive the promise of triumph. Welcome to the feeling of victory. Welcome to the religion of football.
—Lisa Leatrice