There are certain bottlings in the world of wine that supercede their category. Think of how the iconic First Growths of Bordeaux stand sentinel above the rest of the region. Or how Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Tignanello are as intimately tied to the term “Super Tuscan” as anything else. This is the case with Mondavi’s Fumé Blanc Reserve from the To Kalon Vineyard – it’s a wine whose reputation embodies Sauvignon Blanc-based Napa whites as well as anything you’ll likely see. And with the 2009 vintage, it more than lives up to its reputation. On its own or with food, it is an elegant, complex stunner.
Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc Reserve To Kalon Vineyard 2009, Napa Valley
This starts out with sweet aromas of springtime flowers and honeysuckle, orange oil, kumquat and vanilla. It then turns to a palate of bracing acidity that lifts up the generous flavors of honey-drizzled grapefruit, more white-blossomed flowers, lemon verbena, graham crackers and minerals. Drink now or hold for another 10 years. Superb.