Shafer Vineyards is perhaps best known for its legendary “Hillside Select” bottling, one of the classic “Cult Cabernets” of Napa and arguably one of the grape variety’s greatest expressions anywhere. But with a price-tag north of $200, it’s a wine that most consumers read about and fantasize over yet rarely have the chance to taste. (If you do, though, go ahead and jump at the opportunity: It’s every bit as remarkable as you’d expect.)

That doesn’t mean, however, that you can’t experience Shafer on a budget. The Cabernet Sauvignon “One Point Five” is delicious and priced around $70 – not cheap, but certainly doable for a special occasion. And then there’s the “Relentless” bottling, a blend of Syrah and Petite Sirah that rings in around $60, and whose name and character make it a perfect accompaniment to watching the remaining NFL Playoff teams this coming weekend. My Eagles may be gone, but the 49ers are looking strong, and San Francisco is a relatively easy drive from Shafer’s Napa home.

Shafer “Relentless” 2008, Napa Valley

Inky and concentrated in the glass, this wine lives up to its “relentless” name before you even smell it. Once you, do, however, the real fun begins: Concentrated aromas of flowers, black raspberries and dark cherries are joined by blueberry compote, minerals, melted black licorice, tamarind paste and something that reminds me of a balsamic drizzle. These lead to flavors of plum pudding and crushed, super-ripe blackberries, as well as a real sense of savoriness – whole, subtly floral peppercorns, iron and grilled venison. Complex and exuberant, this is a wine that just gives and gives. It’s great now, either on its own or with rich meats (I loved it alongside barbecued spare ribs), and promises another 5+ years of evolution. Remarkable.