Wednesday, 10 February 2010 02:18
Fans of Delicious Yet Unwholesome Fare Will Enjoy Eating Their Way Through New Orleans
Food is to New
Orleans what wine is to France: the city is celebrated worldwide for its
delicious albeit unwholesome cuisine. A plethora of restaurants exist at which
to enjoy Creole and Cajun cooking. Picking the city’s best poses a challenge
especially after eating one’s way to a larger dress size. But here are several
standouts. Important caveat: few options exist for vegetarians. Always ask your
server for non-meat options as that bowl of rice and beans invariably contains
ham.
Café
Fleur-de-Lis: Named after the symbol of New Orleans, Café Fleur-de-Lis is the
place to get breakfast in the French Quarter. Guests wait in long lines to
order from a delicious menu of local favorites including seafood omelets oozing
with crawfish and shrimp, ham-filled muffaletta sandwiches and gut-busting “everything”
hash browns. The last overflows with bacon, sausage, ham, cheese and country
gravy and is immensely satisfying. Remember to wear elastic-waist pants.
Cochon: The name—the
French word for pig— says it all. From fried boudin to Lousiana pulled pork,
Cajun eatery Cochon has pork lovers covered. The boudin balls are served with
stone ground mustard and pickled peppers that are the most lovingly made finger
food in the history of mankind. The Lousiana cochon is a $22 plate of pulled
pork that may not make intuitive sense—cheaper versions are almost as good— but
chef Stephen Stryjewski’s attentiveness turns the dish into a white table cloth
entrée good enough to name a restaurant after. But the real star of the dish is
the cracklins. If Cochon wanted to, it could have an instant, multi-million
dollar side business selling these lightly fried crispy pork rinds by the bag.
Diners can take home slabs of bacon and pounds of andouille sausage at the
restaurant’s butcher shop next door even if the cracklins aren’t for sale.
Emeril’s
Delmonico: Emeril Lagasse is neither Creole nor Cajun but the famous chef cooks
some of the most authentic examples of both. While his Emeril’s New Orleans
gets most of the tourist dollars, Emeril’s Delmonico is his true homage to
Creole cooking. Start with the marinated golden beets with homemade yogurt,
pinenuts and date molasses. It’s a unique but flavorful combination and I wish
I had ordered two servings of it. The crispy pork cheek is a menu standout.
Kudos to Lagasse and chef de cuisine Spencer Minch. Served over rich,
semi-spicy Creole dirty rice, it’s tender and succulent and probably the most
delicious pork dish my companion has ever had. Steaks are dry-aged in house so
make sure to order one and pair it with a Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon from the
restaurant’s extensive wine list.
5 Fifty 5: A
great restaurant at the Marriott hotel? Balderdash, you say! But it’s true.
Utilizing fresh ingredients and local produce, executive chef Mark Quitney
creates some of the tastiest charbroiled oysters and flavorful fried green
tomatoes this side of the Mississippi. Don’t forget to try the lobster macaroni
and cheese with a side of Abita beer-battered onion rings. Diet be damned!
Lil Dizzy’s Café:
Soul food is a Southern staple and New Orleans has its fair share of soul food
hangouts, the best of which is local favorite Lil Dizzy’s Café. Go on Sunday
for the affordable brunch buffet. You’ll rub shoulders with diehard Saints fans
and dine on a variety of authentic Southern food such as fried chicken, grits,
hot sausage and some of the best gumbo around.
Mahony’s Po-Boy
Shop: You can’t go to New Orleans and not indulge in a po’ boy. Mahony’s Po-Boy
Shop deep in the Garden District has some of the best fried sandwiches in New
Orleans. There’s the pot roast beef po’ boy and the fried chicken liver and
creole slaw po’ boy. If you want something over the top try “The Peacemaker.”
It’s a fried oyster po’ boy covered with bacon and cheddar cheese. If you’re
not that adventurous, a classic catfish po’ boy is mouthwateringly delicious.
Prices are a little steep for what is essentially New Orleans street food and
service can be very spotty, but you won’t regret the long walk from the
Quarter.
—Shandana A.
Durrani
Café
Fleur-de-Lis
307 Chartres
Street
New Orleans,
L.A. 70130
504/6551806
Cochon
930
Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans,
L.A. 70130
504/588-2123
Emeril’s
Delmonico
1300 St. Charles
Avenue
New Orleans,
L.A. 70130
504/525-4937
5 Fifty 5
555 Canal Street
New Orleans,
L.A. 70130
504/553-5638
Lil Dizzy’s Café
1500 Esplanade
Avenue
New Orleans,
L.A. 70116
504/569-8997
Mahony’s Po-Boy
Shop
3454 Magazine
Street
New Orleans,
L.A. 70115
504/889-3374